Monday, February 13, 2017

The Edible Romance of the Rose



Balthasar van der Ast (1594-1657)

How many species of roses can you find in this painting?

As Valentine’s Day is nearly upon us (tomorrow), and procrastinators are scrambling to buy last minute gifts, including those very expensive rose bouquets, perhaps it’s time the human race becomes reacquainted with our most powerful symbol of love. And the one plant family whose own history is so intimately entwined with ours.

The Rosaceae family is incredibly large and very diverse. Besides the tremendous number of “ornamental” varieties we plant in our yards, and often torture, there are species of roses we eat all the time. Most of us just don’t realize it any more. My interest in rose history was piqued when heirloom roses really started becoming mainstream. I took notice in the early to mid-1990s, but I think the old rose movement was part of the return to organic/natural gardening, which started making a resurgence in the 1960s & 70s. Of course, growing and using fresh herbs was occurring at the same time; along with rediscovering old recipes for cooking, freshening the home (potpourri), and curing what ails you. Before the Victorians came along, with their notions of beating nature into submission with science, and ornamental gardening became a hobby of the new middle class, roses were multi-purpose herbs. Yes, that includes the rose we now prize for its flowers alone. They’re edible, and once upon a time most of them produced fruits called hips.

Have you ever been to a fancy celebration where sugar coated rose petals decorated a cake? Or perhaps the crazy old lady down the street gifted you with a jar of rose hip jam. Since those items became a lost art, especially in the 20th Century US, you might have thought eating roses was a strange thing to do. I know I did, when I first started seeing rose recipes in magazines like “Victoria” and “Country Living”. But that’s because I kind of forgot what I learned in Biology. Are you a strawberry jam junky? Guess what. You’re eating roses. Remember, I mentioned this is a diverse family. Other members include apples, pears, and quinces (Fall fruits). The drupes; otherwise known as stone fruits like apricots, peaches, cherries, plums and almonds (Summer fruits). Then there are the berries like raspberries and strawberries (late Spring & early Summer).

So how did the rose become the flower the of love? Well, I think it started with humankind’s love of eating. Some nutrition experts seem to be fixated on the hunter part of our history, and maybe downplay the gatherer part a little too much. But let’s be honest here. We’re not the biggest creatures on this planet. We also don’t have fangs and sharp claws. Having meat in our diets took a tremendous amount of work and the outcome of a hunt certainly wasn’t guaranteed. That makes meat a treat, most likely in jerky form. The bulk of early man’s diet was plants, because they don’t run from you, and unless they’re poisonous or have thorns, don’t fight back. Plants from the rose family are probably one of the first superfoods. Rose hips are very high in Vitamin C. They’re generally available from late summer into fall. It’s not hard to imagine stone-age man carrying dried rose hips around in their pouches, like raisins, once they made the association that consumption of their rosy snacks kept them from getting sick in the winter. And what’s not to like about a plant family that makes food at least half the year. 

Because of that early relationship, the rose became civilized with us. Once we settled down and started becoming all philosophical, it was only a matter of time before roses meant more than a means of filling our bellies. The heady fragrances of their flowers spoke to our souls, and their longevity made them mythical forces to a species which often didn’t get to live very long. (Yes, when this large plant family is left to its own devices, many members can live a very long time. Perhaps a resident of one of the Johnny Appleseed states can verify if any of his apple trees are still alive.) It was everything we admire in roses which made them the old world’s enduring symbols of both religion and love. (Even after chocolate hopped the pond, it couldn’t unseat the queen of flowers from her throne.)

If your budget isn’t compatible with a big, fancy bouquet of the flowers, don’t be ashamed of your chocolate covered strawberries or cherries. Heck, if you want to be globally inclusive, give the gift of a chocolate coated, gourmet candy apple. Quite frankly, I can’t think of a more poetic way to show your devotion (and express your amorous intent). In the event your significant other complains you didn’t give them even a single rose, you smile sweetly and say, “Of course I did, my darling. You’re eating it.”

Happy Valentine’s Day!

The Project Queen


P.S. – If you can’t find chocolate covered, candied apples or truly procrastinated to the last moment, core and slice a couple of your favorite apples and turn them into a shareable dessert for two. Place them in the prettiest bowl you have, then drizzle with good quality caramel and chocolate sauce. Indulge in the sensual act of eating with and licking each other’s fingers. After all, the spirit of the holiday is about reconnecting with the one we love the most.